To say that Volkswagen and Audi Group (sometimes mistakenly referred to as VAG) is a large part of the automotive scene worldwide is a gross understatement. From basic transportation to record-setting performance cars, VAG is a recognized leader in innovation and cutting-edge technology. A broad spectrum of models has put a huge number (millions) of VAG models on the road in North America, and these cars will provide many years of potential repair and service opportunities. Getting to know the various models, repair techniques and a few shortcuts will help make repairs more routine and profitable.

Photo 2: Look for a tag like this for engine information; engine codes can be found elsewhere as well.

In this article, I’ll focus on common repairs we see on a daily basis. The series of cars covered in this article will be the VW Passat and Audi A4 and A6 line from 1998 to 2004, as well as the Audi TT and transverse engine VW models. These cars are all very ­similar in design and equipment, and most repairs are consistent between models.

Photo 3: Complete information on equipment can be found on the data label near the spare tire well.

Increasing numbers of distinct models, multiple manufacturing plants and countries of origin, and constantly changing technology make vehicle identification ever more important (see Photo 1), especially as it relates to obtaining the proper parts and data needed to complete repairs.

Most VAG cars will have engine and transmission ID tags that are easy to access and read (see Photo 2). With many models, having the VIN is all that’s needed to determine the OEM equipment, but use the ­vehicle data plate for more concise information (see Photo 3).

As always, this article should not be considered a replacement for obtaining the proper, model-specific information for the model being serviced. Repair ­information is readily available in print form for all models and on-line tech assistance is available from many sources. However, be careful when pulling information from owner forums, as I’ve found a number of inconsistent recommendations that can be more harmful than helpful.

TRANSMISSION SERVICE

Photo 4: Pan damage deserves a closer look.
Automatic transaxle dipsticks and fill tubes disappeared from most VAG models in the late 1990s and, on most models, remotely mounted coolers with ­accessible lines went away even earlier. On models built after 1998, the procedure to change, add or refill a transaxle requires some additional steps to successfully complete a service.

Failing to get the fluid level in the transmission correct will cause shifting problems, codes to set and possible damage. There’s a very delicate balance ­between too much and too little fluid, depending on temperature and the fill status of the torque converter. This process requires a scan tool or other means of monitoring transmission temperature, a means to fill the transmission while it’s elevated and running, and careful planning to complete the steps before the transmission temp climbs too high.

Photo 5: Check fluid level here by removing the plug. If no fluid runs out when cold, the transmission is probably not full.

Each model year and transmission has a specific procedure, although most are based on the same principle. Failing to properly go through the refill steps will cause shifting problems and potential damage. In short: If the transmission has no fault codes, take the time to explain and recommend a transmission service and refill as a first step. Bear in mind that special fluid, tools and equipment will be needed, so be prepared before you pull that plug or give an estimate of costs.

Photo 6: Transmission components are vulnerable; even minor curb damage can cause problems.

On the car used in this example (an Audi TT, based on the New Beetle/Golf platform), the dent in the pan (see Photo 4) appeared to be large enough that there could be internal damage. I’ve seen on other cars that this type of impact has dislodged the filter or damaged the valve body or solenoids. Though that was not the case here, it was a reasonable assumption and needed to be investigated.

When the check plug (see Photo 5) was pulled with the transmission cold, there were about three drops of fluid that came out, but there should have been more. Even with level checking and drain removed, there was probably only about a quart of fluid in the pan. I don’t know why, as there were no significant leaks or evidence of previous service. But since this was a new car for the customer, there was no service history available.

Photo 7: VAG factory fill bottle.

The pan was pulled and a basic inspection revealed no internal damage (see Photo 6), discolored, but not burnt, fluid and a filter that showed very few impurities. A point worth noting here is that the filter is actually a metal screen that when wet, it looks like a piece of sheet metal because it’s so fine. We replaced it in this case since it took a week to get it. Unless it’s seriously contaminated, a thorough cleaning could allow it to be reused.

Photo 8: Factory filler is designed for all VAG cars.

With the pan and new gasket in place, the level tube was reinstalled but not the level-check plug. The filling bottle was prepared with the new fluid, and hung from the hood latch loop (see Photo 7). ­Although the factory fill bottle isn’t absolutely necessary, it has paid for itself in allowing this job to be completed in a much more controllable manner. In this case, the filler plug is on the differential housing, high on the back of the transaxle (see Photo 8).

1. To start the procedure, the transmission temperature must be under 30° C, with the dispenser valve and tube inserted in the fill hole. On other VAG cars, the hooked end of the dispenser makes more sense as the fill hole is in the pan and an internal tube prevents easy filling without the special filler. The valve is turned to the open position and fluid fills the transmission pan until it starts to drip from the check hole. With the dispensing valve closed, the car is lowered and a scanner is attached to the DLC connector under the dash.

2. Following the instructions for your scanner, access the transmission and look for transmission data. You will need to monitor transmission temperature during the fill process. A less precise way to do this would be to use a temp probe or non-contact thermometer, but getting actual fluid temps this way could be difficult.

3. Route the fill hose and scanner cable to avoid contact with any moving or hot components. Run the lead from the scanner to a place where it can be read with the car on a lift, start the car in park and let it idle. Raise the car in the air and allow the transmission fluid to warm while monitoring with the scanner.

4. As the fluid temp rises above 30° C, open the dispensing valve and allow the transmission and torque converter to fill. It will take a few minutes, so keep track of the fluid temp and watch for the fluid to start spilling out of the checking plug hole. It will be obvious that by not filling in this manner, it would be impossible to get enough fluid into the transmission for proper operation, or result in grossly overfilling and causing similar problems or leaks due to excess fluid.

5. Once the fluid has reached 40° C (higher in warmer climates; see the specific repair manual), add or remove fluid until there is just a small amount of fluid coming from the level check hole. Remove the filler unit and install the plugs at the check hole and filler hole.

6. Check for leaks and do a road-test. A final check for codes is a good idea. This service often makes a significant difference in trans operation, and will most likely save your customer a lot of money and gain you a new customer for life.

FINDING THE SOURCE OF ENGINE LEAKS

Leak detection and repair can be a constant struggle for any shop. Tracing the actual source of a minor leak is always a challenge. With engine compartments getting smaller and crammed with even more equipment, even a small leak can require ­removing a number of components to actually determine the leak’s source.

For example, a leak appeared to be coming from under a twin-turbo A6, at the rear face of the engine, and it could have possibly been a head gasket or coolant transfer tube. After removing the intake manifold, the source was obvious; an auxiliary coolant pump is mounted in the valley between the heads.

Other common leak points with these engines are oil leaks at the valve (cam) covers, camshaft tensioner and the valley pan on early models. All of these leak points require some investigation to determine the actual source before repair.

BELTS AND CAM SEALS

Photo 9: There are several choices for replacement seals, so choose carefully to get the best repair.

I’ve covered the timing belt replacement procedures on cars with the 4-cylinder and V6 engines in previous articles. Space restrictions are a problem with ­almost all models. The removal of the front bumper cover and movement of the core support (lock carrier in VAG speak) to the service position is mandatory on non-transverse models.

On the TT, the procedure is the same as on the New Beetle and Golf variants. This is one repair where it’s very important to know exactly which engine series you’re working on. There have been a number of design changes and different repair procedures, as well as updated parts to consider when replacing the belts on especially the 4-cylinder DOHC turbo cars.

The basic differences are whether the water pump is externally mounted and driven by a serpentine belt, or internally driven by the timing belt. Failures of the water pump impeller are common on all engines. An inspection of the water pump while the timing belt is off is a good idea, if you don’t have an automatic replacement policy. I recommend the use of an aftermarket water pump with the metal impeller, for a more durable repair.

On the models with the external water pump, it’s easier to remove the thermostat cover than the water pump to inspect for a cracked or otherwise damaged impeller.

One update that is a little controversial for all of the engines is the cam seals and the update to a springless (PTFE) design. Talking to several shops about what they’re using has given me several opinions and cautions. A close look at the various designs (see Photo 9) available for ­replacing the seals reveals several things to take into account when selecting replacement parts. The brand (OEM or aftermarket) makes a lot of difference in quality, material and design. The OEM parts are also ­conditioned on where the engine or car was built.

My personal recommendation is this: If the repair is a one-day timing belt, water pump and seal job, do not use the updated PTFE seals. To properly install the PTFE seals, everything needs to be clean, dry and the shafts cannot be rotated for at least four hours after installation. They should only be installed on a shaft that shows no obvious wear pattern (like a radial groove).

On a cylinder head overhaul (e.g. bent valves due to timing belt failure), there is plenty of time to take the extra steps to use the new design seals, and take the precaution to allow them to seat before starting the engine. I’ve had no failures of the updated seals when installed correctly and carefully.

If you’re using the original spring-type seals, using the installation sleeve on the shaft can make the difference between a proper reseal and a comeback. Look closely again at Photo 9 of the three seals and you can see why some of the OE seals fail quickly (when the spring rolls off during installation).

UNDERCAR SERVICE

Photo 10: Cracking of the brake flex lines is very common on these cars.
There are two undercar areas to look for service: the front brake flex lines and the front suspension.

The front brake flex lines on these cars tend to crack at the connection point to the caliper (see Photo 10). Although the manufacturer has recalled some of these cars for this fault, not all are covered. Even if you’re not doing brake work, this is one inspection that should be done on every VAG car that comes into your shop. Replacement hoses are readily available, but again, specific hoses are needed depending on how the car is equipped.

Like the cautions earlier concerning identification of the engine and transmission, there are several very different brake systems used throughout this model run, so be ready to pick parts based on rotor diameter and caliper design.

The front suspensions on the A4 and A6 cars are a multiple-link system with up to four ball joints. The ball joints are not replaceable, but instead need to be replaced with their respective suspension arm. Most problems are with the upper ball joints where they attach to the bearing carrier. By grasping the wheel front and rear, and turning (steering action) slightly, the joints will very obviously show wear and vertical movement. Do not mistake this movement for the tie rod ends, which are also prone to failure on the earlier models in this series (many were recalled). There are upgraded parts for most models, which may need to be replaced in sets for a proper repair, so check all applicable TSBs.

Adding VAG cars to the list of models serviced by any shop will ensure maintenance work for a long time to come. Since many tools, parts and software interchange between VW, Audi and even some Porsche models, the purchase of specialized equipment is well worth the investment.

If you’re unsure of just what your perfect car might be, let your local Ford dealership help you dream it up. In the perfect four door sedan to drive your family around town to some minivan that might be perfect for the area carpool to your sports car that can be the envy of all the guys at the office, Ford has something that you will absolutely be excited about.

By visiting the website of your local Ford dealers, like fairviewford.com, you can see the wide selection of vehicles Ford is rolling off the assembly line today. For each car, you’ll be able to see vehicle specifications, like how quickly they can drive, their estimated highway and city gas mileage, and other information and facts, like safety ratings. Looking online is really the easiest method to start if you haven’t bought a car in ages. Once you’ve investigated http://fairviewford.com, or a similar site, you can visit a dealership with an idea of everything you like. There, your salesperson can ask you even more specific inquiries to narrow your research field. And you’ll have the capacity to see the cars in person, sit in them, and in many cases test drive them on the road to make sure that you’re really content with how they drive, which is always the ultimate and most important test of a new car. You’ve got to feel comfortable in it, and merely then are you happy. If you have no idea of the your new dream car might be, let Ford help you dream it up. The professional salespeople in your local dealership will be able to tailor their recommendations to your specific needs so you’ll drive off the lot with a car you’ll love today and also be crazy about for years to come.

The Ford 4.0L SOHC engine is the ­successor to the 60-degree V6 pushrod OHV 4.0L engine, and is the latest in a long series of engines produced at Ford’s plant in Cologne Germany.

The SOHC version went into production in 1997 for use in the Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer, and later became an optional engine for the 2001 to 2011 Ford Ranger, 2001 to 2010 Mazda B4000, 2005 to 2010 Ford Mustang and 2005 to 2009 Land Rover LR3.

Rated at a rather anemic 210 horsepower, the 4.0L SOHC V6 is not exactly a high output engine. It also has an unusual overhead cam drive setup.

Unlike most other OHC V6 and V8 engines that drive both overhead cams directly from the crankshaft with a belt or chain, this engine has an intermediate jackshaft in the middle of the block where a pushrod cam would normally be located.

The 4.0L SOHC engine was found under the hood of many Ford and related SUVs and light trucks, as well as 2005-’10 Mustangs.

A short timing chain on the front of the engine connects the crankshaft to the intermediate jackshaft. A second, longer timing chain behind the first chain connects the front of the jackshaft to the overhead cam on the left side of the engine.

A third timing chain in the back of the engine connects the rear of the jackshaft to the overhead cam in the right cylinder head. There is also a balance shaft in the crankcase of engines used in 4×4 trucks, which is driven by a fourth chain directly off the crankshaft.

Why Ford designed the cam drives this way is anyone’s guess. It probably allowed the engine to be shorter and more compact. But one of the unintended consequences of this fore-and-aft split cam drive arrangement is that it makes the timing chains, guides and tensioners VERY difficult to replace — which makes for an expensive repair when a chain guide or tensioner fails on one of these engines (a common problem on high mileage engines, especially if the owner has ­neglected regular oil changes).

TIMING CHAIN PROBLEMS

Some of the early engines up through 2002 in the Ranger and Explorer have had a timing chain rattle problem due to the poor design of the original teflon chain guides. The noise is most noticeable when a cold engine is first started, and is usually loudest from 2400 to 3000 rpm.

The same noise problem can also develop in 2003 and newer high-mileage engines as a result of chain guide wear. In some instances, the guide may break and disintegrate and spew debris into the oil pan. This may also cause one of the timing chains to break (typically the front left chain).

Fortunately, the 4.0L SOHC is not an interference engine so a timing chain failure won’t bend the valves. But it does create an expensive repair for the vehicle owner.

Ford issued a TSB for the timing rattle problem and released a redesigned “‘cassette”‘ (the timing chain, gears, guide and tensioner assembly) for the left front timing chain. This timing chain cassette can be replaced without having to pull the engine out of the vehicle.

But, if the engine has a bad rear chain or guide, or a chain guide has failed and throws debris into the crankcase, you will have to remove the engine to make the required repairs. That includes removing the flywheel and flexplate so that the rear cam drive cassette can be replaced, and pulling the oil pan so any debris in the oil pan and oil pickup screen can be cleaned out.

You’ll also need a special tool kit (Ford or aftermarket) to hold the cams and tension the timing chains, and to prevent the crankshaft from rotating while you’re doing the cam drives. You’ll also need the proper puller to get the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft.

One of the unintended consequences of the 4.0L’s fore-and-aft split cam drive arrangement is that it makes the timing chains, guides and tensioners VERY difficult to replace and an expensive repair when a chain guide or tensioner fails. Courtesy: Cloyes Gears

The redesigned Ford primary timing chain service kit includes an improved chain tensioner and chain guide, chain, jackshaft and sprockets. Kit number 2U3Z-6D256-AA is for balance shaft engines in 1999 to 2001 4×4 Explorer/Mountaineer, 2001 to 2002 4×4 Sport/Sport Trac and all 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer (except engine codes 2G-960-AA and 2G-964-AA). Kit number 2U3Z-6D256-BA is for non-balance shaft engines in 1999 to 2001 2WD Explorer/Mountaineer and 2001 to 2002 2WD Sport/Sport Trac, and all 2001 to 2002 Ranger.

ENGINE SERVICE

If the head gasket is leaking, replacing the left head gasket can be done with the engine in the vehicle (assuming there is enough room to pull the head). But if the right head has to come off, the only way to remove the head is with the engine out of the vehicle because of the rear cam drive on the right head.

At this point, some might argue that it’s cheaper and easier to simply find a good used engine and replace the old motor rather than repair it. This might be a viable alternative IF you can find a good used low-mileage 4.0L SOHC V6 that can be swapped into your customer’s vehicle.

A short timing chain on the front of the engine connects the crankshaft to the ­intermediate jackshaft.

But by the time many of these engines end up in a salvage yard, they don’t have a lot of miles left in them. A better option if your customer is willing to spend the money would be to install a remanufactured engine. A reman engine from a reputable supplier should be completely reconditioned to original specifications and come with an extended warranty.

Some suppliers offer a three-year or 36,000-mile warranty with their reman engines. That’s a better deal than the 30 day guarantee many salvage yards offer (which doesn’t include labor!).

If the engine in your customer’s vehicle has a timing chain rattle problem, and the engine has less than 100,000 miles on it, doing an oil change and using a light viscosity, pure synthetic oil can sometimes quiet the noise.

The lighter oil will flow to the timing chain more quickly following a cold start and reduce the noise somewhat. However, if the engine has a lot of miles on it (more than 100,000) or changing motor oils makes no difference, replacing the timing chain cassette(s) will likely be necessary to quiet the engine.

As we mentioned earlier, this is a rather involved repair procedure so always refer to the Ford service literature for the step-by-step details. If you try to wing it as you go, you’ll likely be in for some unpleasant surprises along the way.

The jackshaft drive gear and cam drive gear retaining bolts are TTY (torque-to-yield) and should not be reused. If you don’t replace these bolts with new ones, there’s a risk of breakage. The rear jackshaft bolt is also covered by a small circular plug on the back of the engine. It looks like a freeze plug but isn’t.

The front left chain ­tensioner can be tricky to extract because of its close proximity to the thermostat housing and coolant sensors. You may have to remove the thermostat housing if you can’t get the tensioner out with a wrench or deep socket.

The left (front) and right (rear) cam drive cassettes for this engine are different, and the design and quality of the parts can vary depending on the supplier. Some aftermarket suppliers buy their cam drive cassettes from the same original equipment supplier that Ford uses, while others do not. Since this is a labor-intensive repair that should only have to be done once, don’t try to save money on a no-name part. Go with the genuine Ford replacement parts or parts from a quality-brand aftermarket company.

Other “fun” parts to replace on this engine include the heated PCV valve on the back of the left valve cover. It’s out of sight and hard to reach with little clearance between the engine and firewall.

DIAGNOSTICS

If the Check Engine light is on and you’re doing misfire diagnostics on a 2006 and up Explorer, a new scan tool PID that’s available on these ­models is the actual burn time of each individual spark plug. By comparing the spark durations, you can quickly see if a spark plug is fouled or a cylinder has low compression because the burn time for that cylinder will be longer. If you see a cylinder with a shorter burn time, it would tell you that cylinder is running lean or the spark plug gap in that cylinder is worn or set too wide.

On some 2005-’10 Mustangs with automatic transmissions, there can be an annoying vibration at idle, especially when the A/C is on. The problem is not the engine, but an exhaust ­vibration. Ford TSB 05-8-6 says the cure is to install a damper kit to dampen the annoying vibration. The kit is P/N 5R3Z-5F240-A.

MAINTENANCE

The original equipment spark plugs are platinum with a 100,000-mile service interval. Make sure you install the correct replacement plugs because the ones for the 4.0L OHV pushrod engine are shorter and won’t position the electrode the correct distance into the combustion chamber.

Though Ford diehards tend to stick with the original Motorcraft brand spark plugs, any brand of spark plug will work in these engines provided the plug manufacturer has a listing for the engine application. The plug gap is 0.054” on most applications.

The crankcase oil capacity on the 4.0L SOHC V6 is 5 quarts, usually 5W-30 for the older vehicles and 5W-20 for the newer ones. Refer to the vehicle owner’s manual for the recommended viscosity.

Whenever we initially discovered Mercedes-Benz’s Idea Coupe SUV, we possessed no circumstance, neither info, about its sizing. We surmised it was actually most likely a reduced, A-School structured offering. It isn’t.

Right now we are able to show that the important Merc is definitely a Big Merc: it measures nearly five metres in length and stands 1.75m tall, dimensions that put it on par with the BMW X6, though it’s a touch wider even than that monster Beemer.

It’s simply a research into how a probable four-front door, a number of-tire-travel SUV/Coupe Point could look, employing design elements common to many other Benz coupes from the collection.

Such as the back end, created with the new S-Class Coupe in mind – that slender music group of lights and back end home window having a curved top rated. There are frameless aspect microsoft windows and recessed door handles. There are substantial 22in wheels. The top meanwhile, functions Brought headlights, ‘soft cubes’ inside the grille put as well as a forward sloping bonnet with Merc’s ‘power dome’.

That’s a signal for the 333bhp, two-turbo V6 fitted under it, a similar dual-turbo V6 Mercedes recently announced for your SL400 (that swithces the SL350). It’s 354lb ft has to move… some amount of mass (we’re not told exactly how much it weighs about), but is even so channeled by way of a 9-Pace car ‘box and long term 4-wheel-travel.

Additionally, it has got the new S-Type Coupe’s productive bend method, productive air flow suspensions, and porcelain ceramic brakes too, to help drill property the point that it car is a schporty SUV Coupe.

Featuring its exceptional sportiness it conveys a feeling of present day deluxe and visual dreams of sensuous quality, affirms Mercedes design and style main Gorden Wagener. It’s even decorated inside a tone inspired by the traditional Metallic Arrows coloring utilized for the 1930s and 1950s.

But inform us, will it be a step too much for Merc, or is this the Benz you’ve been crying out for?

It is illegal to use a cell phone while driving in the majority of the states and do you know why? It’s because it’s dangerous yes. Cell phones are a dangerous distraction which can be detected at the root of many collisions on the highway. Taking a few precautions before setting off on a journey can help to reduce the impact of these possibilities resulting in a calm, safe and fully focused drive, although of course there are other distractions which a driver must also face.

Here are a few easy steps which every driver can take to help keep the distractions at bay:

• Switch off your cell phone before you climb into the car. There, that was easy wasn’t it? If you’re not allowed to use it and it is a dangerous distraction just switch it off.

• Record a voice mail message to tell callers that you are driving but you will be sure to return their call as soon as you are free – you see, it’s not rocket science is it?

• If you do need to make an important telephone call then find somewhere safe to pull off by the side of the road first. If you just take the time to look, there are usually plenty of safe places available.

• If you have a passenger in the car with you and you can’t find somewhere safe to pull off simply ask them to make the call on your behalf.

•ever and Never, ever write text messages, check your emails or surf the web whilst driving. If you’re on a long, straight road which you know like the back of your hand and there are no other vehicles in sight, things happen fast when you’re driving and you must always give your full attention to the road and the motor, it doesn’t matter.

• Make sure that you know the laws for the state you are driving in. You will probably be fully aware of the laws for your own state but if you are going on a long road trip you could pass through a number of states with different laws.

• Know where you are headed before you set off. If you are going somewhere which is not familiar to you then familiarize yourself with landmarks before you set off on your journey, program your destination into the GPS, check out directions, take a look at the map.

• Secure all pets firmly into position before you set off. Traveling with loose animals in the car is not only a dangerous distraction for you but could also be extremely dangerous for them in case of an accident.

• Don’t get into any heated exchanges with your fellow passengers. When you are driving it is not the right time or the right place to start falling out with people or getting into heated conversations. Save those for when you arrive at your destination.

• Don’t do anything which may take your eyes or your mind off the road ahead. We’ve covered the cell phone usage but other things include eating, drinking, applying make-up, reading (yes, really) and many other things.

There are very many distractions which can contribute to accidents and collisions on the road – distractions while driving are dangerous for you, for your passengers and for any other road users who are unlucky enough to cross your path.

When you have stopped driving you should check out http://metronissanredlands.com and see the great choice of cars they have. I said when you have stopped reached and driving your destination – that’s metronissanredlands.com. Got it?

Seoul – Kia Engines Firm released nowadays its international product sales stats (export income, domestic sales and income from overseas plants) for passenger automobiles, leisure vehicles (Recreational vehicles) and business vehicles for Mar 2014, recording an absolute of 262,016 products distributed. This physique represents a 7.1Per cent season-on-year boost.

In March, Kia posted season-on-calendar year product sales increases in China, Canada And America, European countries* and Common Marketplaces* of 14.2Per cent (55,208 devices marketed); 10.3% (60,658 units distributed), 6.7Percent (61,487 products marketed) and 3.7% (45,658 units marketed), respectively.

Cumulatively, through the initially ninety days of 2014, Kia’s global income have increased by 5.2% 12 months-on-12 months to achieve 687,225 devices. China, The United States, The european union* and General Marketplaces have observed cumulative results currently in 2014 of 13.Per cent (163,358 products marketed), 4.6Per cent (147,156 devices offered), 4.2Per cent (141,255 products distributed) and 2.9% (127,451 models sold), respectively.

Kia’s top selling version in international markets for the 30 days of Mar was the B-segment Rio (called ‘K2’ in Asia) with 46,894 units offered. The Sportage portable CUV was the second very best vendor with 38,319 devices shipped, while the C-sector Cerato (called ‘Forte’ or ‘K3’ in certain market segments), Optima D-section sedan and Heart and soul urban crossover followed with 35,578, 25,295 and 17,788 products offered, respectively.

Picture: Car Knowledge

(Apr 7, 2014)

Berlin, Germany — Even before we drove it, the Volkswagen e-Golf, which is based on the seventh-generation of the Golf family, felt so familiar that Big Bird could have been under the hood and we would have liked it. (Feathering the throttle would have been touchy, though.) Instead of a beak and plumage, we got a 12,000-rpm electric motor. When it goes on sale in late October, the 2015 e-Golf will become the first battery-electric car Volkswagen has offered in the United States. As a Golf, it is highly advanced and thoroughly refined; it just happens to be electric.

Volkswagen chose Tempelhof airport in Berlin for the introduction. Waves of dignitaries, dealers, and drudges like us sampled not only the e-Golf but also the Golf GTE, a plug-in hybrid not yet confirmed for sale in the United States. Even Berlin’s general public was invited out to try electric mobility, Wolfsburg style. For our part, starting from the site of the airlift that sustained the city through the eleven-month blockade of 1948 and 1949, we drove a 26-kilometer (16-mile) loop over major streets, passing a remnant of the old Wall along the way and reflecting with admiration on our forebears’ defiance of Soviet totalitarianism.

Whereas C-54 Skymasters had substantially outperformed tail-dragging C-47s in the airlift, the e-Golf performs like every other battery-electric we’ve driven. The silent delivery of power, the hiss of tires, and their occasional thumping over a bump are the car’s signatures. Neither dramatic nor thrilling — VW quotes 10.4 seconds to 62 mph and a limited top speed of 87 mph — the experience is nonetheless satisfying, especially in Germany, where 23 percent of electric power comes from renewable sources, and in Berlin, where there is nary a pothole. With 115 hp and 199 lb-ft of torque, electric propulsion delivers a substantial feeling, like a breakfast smoothie fortified by a sweet potato.

Those bystanders gathered at the Wall’s graffiti-covered remnant would need schooling to know the e-Golf is different than its gas- or diesel-powered counterparts, but there are clues. The bodywork is more aerodynamic, giving a substantial edge (a 0.28 drag coefficient, versus 0.30) over the basic model. Unique windmill-style wheels, four badges on the body, blue accents, and chevron-like front indicator lamps add to the distinction. (This is the first VW with all-LED lighting.) Azure ambient illumination glowed at our elbows as we passed through the long Tiergarten tunnel, and aquamarine stitching bound the leather covering to the steering wheel.

Between the instrument display’s large dials, an indicator tells the selected driving mode: Normal, Eco, or Eco+. The central display screen presents animations showing battery draw and regeneration status. Moving the e-Golf’s lever for the new single-speed transmission to the B setting engages the most aggressive of four energy regeneration profiles. It challenged our ability to stop smoothly but nearly enabled one-pedal driving.

Rather than a lap around Berlin, we could have traveled between 80 and 118 miles on the charge. The 264-cell lithium-ion battery, which is assembled into 27 modules weighing 700 pounds, is good for 24.2 kWh. It recharges in thirteen hours, although VW offers a wall box that shortens replenishment time to eight hours. A DC fast charger will open the gates to 80 percent capacity in about 30 minutes. Battery temperature and function are monitored and regulated for maximum safety and output.

With dynamic performance being nothing to brag about, the e-Golf claims more back-seat and cargo room than the Nissan Leaf. (The latter advantage owes something to the VW’s lack of a spare tire.) A best-in-class ownership experience is also promised. Where the e-Golf shines brightest, though, is in the Wolfsburg factory that will turn out 850,000 cars in 2014. The Golf’s modular chassis architecture, which will spread to other VW models, permits the consecutive assembly of climate-change-denying Golfs fitted with combustion engines and eco-models riding along the line on yoga mats while using an app to chart the melting of glaciers.

Whatever the customer needs, we can build, Heinz-Jakob Neusser, Volkswagen Group’s powertrain development chief, said in a press conference.

Besides the e-Golf, Wolfsburg can build the GTE. The plug-in hybrid is three cars in one. We drove it on a short loop, first staying in electric mode and creeping smugly through traffic. Accelerating onto a boulevard, we received assistance from the 1.4-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine known and loved from the Jetta Hybrid, and the GTE romped through Berlin. Returning to the decommissioned airfield, we did a couple of acceleration runs, finding nothing to dispute the contention of GTI-like performance from the hybrid.

The Golf celebrates its fortieth birthday on March 29. More than 30 million examples have been produced. When it comes to America and goes on sale at an as yet undetermined price, the 2015 e-Golf will represent a factory once written off as uncompetitive and a company in the midst of transformation, determined to reduce energy use and material waste in its plants, to use lightweight, hot-formed steel wherever possible, and to scrape away every gram of excess metal from engine components for better efficiency. Whether the e-Golf becomes a Volks populi is beside the point: VW believes its serious intent is worth squawking about.

There’s nothing quite like a road trip, giving you the opportunity really bond with your nearest and dearest, friends and partners companions – setting out together on a voyage of exploration and discovery. You will likely never have spent such lengthy periods of time with your companions – you will probably be in each other’s company 24/7 and pretty soon you’ll want to kill each other. That is unfortunately the down side.

Fear not, it just needs a little preparation. It doesn’t matter whether you will be travelling in a twosome or within a large party – it is very important get several things right so that everybody can relax and savor the trip.

Choose your companions well – this really depends upon where you are going and how adventurous this trip is actually going to be. It is more important if you are embarking on a high pressure expedition. Everybody deal with pressure situations differently and if you must rely on many people for your safety you need to know that they can step up on the mark instead of crumble.

Be open and let it all out – when someone says a thing that annoys you don’t be afraid to tell them, the more you hold things in the worse they become. Before things escalate out of control, if someone is very getting on the nerves tell them politely but hopefully and firmly they’ll have the message.

Don’t be afraid to say sorry – if you do have a fall out with a member of your party don’t be afraid to apologize – even if you were completely right and they were obviously wrong. Step away from the situation, give yourself space to settle down, come back and say sorry over a cupful of tea. If you allow bad feelings to simmer they are able to really escape control but simply saying “sorry” can really defuse the situation.

Get a little space – it can be difficult should you be all cooped in a car for 24 hours a day but when you do have the opportunity to take just a little space then take it. Plan a little alone time whenever you can, sit back and relax then you will be refreshed plus more able to deal with the annoying little habits of your traveling companions.

Keep watch over your moods -everyone gets into bad moods every now and then so recognize when you are in one and apologize to your companions in advance. Okay, so it will not be much of a help but no less than they’ll realize why you’re being so inconsiderate or strange instantly.

Get lots of sleep and good food – this goes for every one of the travelers. If people get plenty of rest and good food inside them it is actually half of the battle. There is nothing worse than the usual car full of cranky, sleep deprived hungry travelers – it really is a recipe for disaster. If you can be sure to be hydrated, eat well and get a good night’s sleep every day then half of other potential problems will disappear.

Go with a good motor – there are numerous fabulous motors to choose from at http://mcpeeksdodge.com. For those who have a good, comfortable and reliable vehicle for your trip then you that may be half the battle. Take a look at http://mcpeeksdodge.com and see what they’ve got – it really can certainly make the difference between an okay experience plus a truly awesome, memorable road trip with a bunch of terrific traveling companions.

Following higher-than-expected initial pre-orders and high levels of interest, BMW will ramp up production of the i3 electric city car by more than 40 percent in order to meet demand in the United States, according to Reuters. The BMW i3 proceeded transaction in Europe in December, in fact it is supposed to appear here in the United states in Might.

Demand in Europe and the U.S. is more than the company could manage at that rate, although bMW was previously building roughly 70 i3 units a day. “The United States Of America will be the greatest industry for the i3,” BMW board fellow member Harald Krueger informed Reuters. “Because of this we now have started off increasing creation ranges and they are presently at about 100 autos each day.”

BMW CFO Friedrich Eichner formerly predicted the production boost would be required. At the time, 8000 consumers got pre-purchased the BMW i3 and the German car maker calculated it could offer ten thousand units of the electronic town vehicle in 2014. Reuters reports that BMW has created 5,000 i3 vehicles and requests for longer than 11,000 automobiles happen to be in place.

The BMW i3 all-electrical city car, produced alongside the BMW i8 sports car, will start from the Usa at $42,275 which include vacation spot. It could traveling 80-100 miles on a single cost as a result of its back end-fitted lithium-ion battery pack package, light-weight light weight aluminum and carbon-fiber strengthened polymer physique, and 170-hewlett packard electric motor driving a car the rear tires. For an additional $3850, buyers can decide to provide a little gasoline motor as being a battery-charging collection extender.

Together with stretching out the BMW brand name into high-technical gas-successful territory, so-referred to as Undertaking i am going to also reward existing and long term manufacturing vehicles. Instruction discovered inside the technology procedure, along with plentiful carbon dietary fiber creation squander, will allow BMW to expert light-weight elements like full-carbon dietary fiber steering, wheels and wheels and propeller shafts.

The Ford Mustang should go in conjunction with drag competitions, regardless of whether sanctioned or otherwise not, and also the car maker wants to give all car owners entry to technology that may offer the benefits of a mechanical system without having to adjust the braking systems on the 2015 Mustang GT. This new characteristic will probably be standard around the all-new model. Steve Ling, Ford car marketing administrator, stated within a assertion, Competitors continues to be an important part of the Ford Mustang way of living because its very first days half a century in the past. We understand our customers, so we wished for to supply a unique characteristic for those desiring to take full advantage of the increased ability offered by this new Mustang GT in the pull strip. Together with the electronic collection-lock function empowered, the operator can discharge the braking system as well as the hydraulic management device can keep the top braking system locked while the back braking system are launched. This allows the motorist warm up the back wheels for maximum traction without having to equilibrium involving the brake and gas or put in a mechanical range-secure. Whilst not all consumers can take their new Mustang GTs to the strip, they can continue to take advantage of the new normal functions to acquire the best from their vehicles. The electronic line-lock is meant only for the track, although the electronic line-lock and launch control provide consistent performance.